Who wants the Winter Olympics when you’ll be able to watch Lindsey Vonn tearing up the ski slopes in a Thom Browne tuxedo and gold lame puffer robe? Ah-mazing.
Browne solid the alpine racing queen as his star in one of many high trend movies of the season, a 10-minute jewel-box of a story in black-and-white that conjured the intimacy of Wes Anderson’s “Grand Budapest Resort” and the sentimentality of Victor Fleming’s “Wizard of Oz,” however was nonetheless pure Thom.
“If you do one thing you wish to be actually particular, you all the time have the dream of working with somebody who’s one of the best at what they do. It’s like LeBron,” Browne mentioned, referencing his collaboration on clothes with the basketball legend LeBron James. “If you consider a skier you consider Lindsey Vonn.”
The movie spotlighting the Olympian, who in 2010 grew to become the primary American lady to win the gold in downhill snowboarding, follows Browne’s sport-themed spring outing, shot at L.A.’s Memorial Sports activities Coliseum, which hosted the Olympics twice.
“It began after I was in L.A. in September, I assumed the play on the 2 collections could be the Summer season and Winter Olympics, and [for winter] taking the thought of maximum sports activities movies, which I like, all of the individuals leaping out of helicopters and snowboarding these insane slopes. The dream was to have Lindsey Vonn leaping out of a helicopter and snowboarding in one among my tuxedos. And right here we’ve it!”
“I like that this mission introduced Thom and me collectively,” Vonn mentioned by way of electronic mail. “He’s meticulous in his work and couture craftsmanship and has produced a marketing campaign video that highlights his inventive thoughts and his message of hope and unity.”
Browne wrote and directed the story, which pays homage to Dorothy’s “no place like house” dream state, with filmmaker Carissa Gallo. (“She understands my weirdness and the way I wish to make issues extra charmingly outdated versus new and hyper lifelike,” he mentioned.) The shoot occurred over three days on Solitude Mountain exterior of Park Metropolis, Utah. “We had been all on skis..it was superb to see the blokes with the regular cams on skis and to see her ski in particular person,” mentioned Browne of Vonn’s carving method. “It was a lot work but in addition a lot enjoyable. The spring movie was a great studying expertise. This one feels at a unique degree.”
Fusing couture tweeds and mohairs and technical ripstop materials, black tie formalwear and sportswear silhouettes, the lads’s and girls’s assortment lived as much as the movie in drama. It was additionally a grasp class in execution, providing a multilayered window into basic dressmaking methods like corsetry and pleating.
Robes had been sculptural constructions of half tuxedos, half corsets, whereas tailoring was intensely detailed with patchworks and intarsias of alpine scenes, or embroidered with snowflakes produced from the model’s Mr. and Mrs. Thom stick determine icons and tiny bugle beads like a contemporary dusting. Intricate, irregular pleating on a draped black wool skirt unbuttoning from a white corset echoed a skier’s turns in powder. And a black minidress, worn over a pleated trouser skirt, was so densely beaded the designer mentioned it weighed near 100 kilos.
However not all the pieces was heavy. Technical draw cords created buoyant form within the sleeves and collars of white cotton pique tuxedo shirts, some with cool, over-the-hand cuff particulars, and the shirting for one, may very well be separated from Browne’s whole appears to be like and integrated into nearly anybody’s wardrobe.
Talking of the business entrance, down-filled outerwear has been an enormous class for Browne, ever since he grew to become one of many first Moncler collaborators in 2016, and that sporty affect may very well be felt within the voluminous nylon quilted skirt on a corset gown that was a marvel of building, mixing knit, woven and nylon materials, and formed by technical draw cords; in addition to on a horizontally-quilted night cape, puffer totes, shawls and extra ready-to-wear items.
One other tuxedo corset robe, full with embroidered mittens on the jacket-like bodice, and a brilliant measurement white satin bow on the hip, additionally had nylon puffer quantity to the skirt.
“It’s vital to see lovely clothes on a physique, regardless if it’s a person or lady,” Browne mentioned of the look. “I like exhibiting males’s and girls’s collectively however that is the primary time I didn’t consider a person or a girl after I designed, I actually simply created the items. It’s an incredible time we reside in that this dialog is going on.”
There was a lot element to be pored over, one hopes these garments could be seen in particular person sooner or later, since they weren’t on a runway, maybe as a part of an exhibition at a retailer or museum.
That’s the one caveat of the digital format, Browne conceded. “I’m going to return to reside exhibits, however I additionally actually love doing movie and the thought of doing a mixture of each. It’s a luxurious to have the time to edit the place with a present, it’s 20 minutes and also you higher get it proper.”
He’s so inventive, it will be attention-grabbing to see a full size function movie from him sooner or later. Transfer over Tom Ford, there’s one other Thom able to take Hollywood.