When the Ok-pop band Blackpink launched the music video for his or her track “How You Like That” in June, followers started asking concerning the group’s outfits, which appeared without delay conventional and modern. Who was the designer behind Jennie’s cropped pink jacket, they needed to know, and what impressed the look?
Previously few years, related design ideas have been noticed on members of Ok-pop teams like BTS, SHINee and Exo. They’re contemporary takes on a centuries-old type of Korean gown known as a hanbok. Scroll by way of the #hanbokstagram hashtag on Instagram and also you’ll discover 1000’s of posts with up to date seems.
Whereas a hanbok — which often consists of a jeogori (jacket), paired with baji (pants) for males and a chima (skirt) for ladies — is usually reserved for holidays and particular events, modern designers have been reimagining it.
Some trendy hanbok manufacturers have been boosted by Ok-pop stars who command devoted stan armies. Kim Danha, of the label Danha, mentioned her model’s website noticed practically 4,000 guests a day after her jacket appeared on Jennie within the Blackpink video.
Leesle Hwang, the designer of the model Leesle, noticed a rise in gross sales after Jimin of BTS wore one among her hanbok ensembles on the 2018 Melon Music Awards in Seoul. “It’s unimaginable how many individuals acquired to know Leesle by way of that one look,” she mentioned. One other model, A Nothing, gained some 8,000 followers after Jungkook, one other BTS member, wore its garments.
“The explanation why individuals turned all for hanboks, particularly exterior Korea, is that this development tender energy as demonstrated by Ok-pop,” mentioned Kan Ho-sup, a professor of textile artwork and style design at Hongik College.
In Korea, the model may be traced again to the primary century B.C., and was historically made out of silk dyed in vivid colours. (Earlier than the arrival of Western clothes in Korea, all clothes was merely a hanbok; the phrase itself means “Korean clothes.”)
In response to Minjee Kim, a gown historian in San Francisco, Western clothes utterly changed the hanbok within the early 1980s. Virtually concurrently, there have been designers incorporating conventional Korean parts into Western designs.
Ms. Kim attributed the late designer Lee Younger-hee as the primary designer to transcend the boundaries of hanbok design. At Paris Vogue Week in 1993, the designer despatched bare-shouldered fashions down the runway sporting hanboks with out a jeogori.
Across the identical time, the stylist Suh Younghee turned all for hanbok as a result of she felt it may counter the business’s obsession with Western labels. She started taking part in with hanbok conventions at Vogue Korea, the place she labored. Within the February 2006 difficulty, she styled jokduri (conventional coronets) on fashions with vibrantly dyed hair, a picture that defied any conventionality the garment would possibly convey. In 2014, she helped begin the Hanbok Development Middle, which leads applications on hanbok schooling and funds associated occasions.
Within the early 2000s, the designer Kim Younger-Jin began rethinking the model’s custom whereas finding out with Park Solar-young, a grasp of hanbok needlework. Ms. Kim discovered a couple of kind of conventional navy uniform worn by males in the course of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1897) known as the Cheolik, and recreated it as a midi-length wrap gown with a V-shaped collar, tailor-made to suit the feminine type. “Simply because one thing is impressed by the previous doesn’t imply there’s no creativity in it,” she mentioned.
When photos of the garment started circulating, different labels began creating related seems. Ms. Suh, who usually collaborates with Ms. Kim for high-end style picture shoots, known as the variety of “copies” troubling. “I’m not saying this as a result of we’re shut, however Tchai Kim’s Cheolik one-piece marked a brand new period of hanbok design,” Ms. Suh mentioned.
After experimenting with leftover textiles at her dad and mom’ bedding and curtains store, Ms. Hwang, of Leesle, started promoting her items on-line and finally began Sonjjang, a hanbok line specializing in what she known as “altered hanboks,” with lace and frills, and shortened sleeves and skirt strains.
When Ms. Hwang started desirous about creating hanboks for on a regular basis put on, she turned to the web. A majority of conventional hanbok retailers have been, and nonetheless are, reluctant to stray from the costly, ’70s-style tailored-to-fit designs, however on-line communities dedicated to hanbok subcultures have been already discussing what adjustments they needed within the garment as early because the mid 2000s.
Taking their suggestions into consideration, Ms. Hwang based Leesle in 2014, promoting easy-to-wash hanboks. Her garments can be found in further small to giant, in contrast to many firms that supply just one measurement. “I don’t wish to be unique,” Ms. Hwang mentioned. “Greater individuals. Older individuals. Slender individuals.” Her clothes are additionally extra modestly priced than their silk forebears, at below $200 apiece.
“It’s nonetheless unusual to see individuals in trendy hanbok,” Ms. Hwang mentioned. “And whereas it doesn’t should be worn on a regular basis, it may well change into a primary merchandise like a white T-shirt or black pants.”
Kim Danha mentioned she hopes those that encounter her model come to understand Danha’s environmental ethos. The label has a concentrate on sustainability; 30 to 50 p.c of its materials are recycled polyester or natural cotton.
“Sustainability and conventional Korean design go properly collectively as a result of in comparison with Western shapes, authentic hanbok designs produce much less scraps,” she mentioned. The hanbok’s straight strains, she mentioned, waste much less material than, as an illustration, the rounded collar of a T-shirt.
She cited the worsening air air pollution in South Korea as a motivation for her curiosity in environmental points.
Nevertheless, so-called sluggish style is a tricky enterprise, she mentioned. Upcycling discarded marriage ceremony attire is labor-intensive, and all the things, even printing on material, prices extra if you take the eco-friendly route, she mentioned. So whereas she tries to uphold that mannequin, most essential to her is honoring the hanbok and giving it a spot sooner or later.